Thursday, 23 April 2015

A Collared Oakridge

Tho' she has absolutely no recollection of this, the Geek found this blouse at a thrift store a few years ago. We both liked the fabric and the pattern,

This is the pattern, not the much more interesting way the camera make it appear in the other photos.

but not the boxy shape.
No fashion blogger would wear this blouse with those trousers.
This picture was taken after I removed the darts.
I tried adding dart to the front and back, that made it fit better in the waist but didn't address the poor fit under the arms.
The shirt was placed in the 'ponder' file for several months.

Tasia then released the Oakridge pattern. It's nice having someone who designs for the pear-shaped among us.

I traced out my size placed, found the blouse, opened up the side seams, and placed the pattern pieces over the existing front and back. After cutting the blouse to the new shape, I resewed the side seams. I didn't change the hem or the collar.

I didn't move the dart, which may explain the drag lines toward my waist even tho' the fit under my arms is better.
 But when you add a sweater, you can't see the imperfections.
 Now I'll see how it fits when I start with a fresh piece of fabric rather than an existing shirt.

Sunday, 12 April 2015

Front and Back. Front to Back. Front and...

I'm not the only one who has trouble fitting trousers. It's a common lament on the blogs I read. Only Roobeedoo has managed to nail a pair on the first outing. I'm thrilled for her and I hope I can find my perfect pattern too.
My first attempt, started in January, was a full legged pair, Vogue 8751. I decided to insert use a back zipper because, for me, fly fronts don't always reflect how well something fits. The back zipper was a royal pain, taking me three attempts and I regretted trying to be clever;the fly front would have been much easier.
The results are not what I'd hoped for and I'm not sure if I like the pattern enough to try fixing the problems.

some pulling in the back
But the real kicker was the way the yoke did(n't) fit. I think the pattern was made for someone whose hipline suddenly turns into a waist. Mine tend to taper in gradually.

plus, the pockets stick out
OK. Next. Vintage McCalls 5408 shorts with length added to the legs and pockets.
a prominsing start.
This turned out to be quite hilarious. Again, I did the back zipper for the previously mentioned reason, and again, I should have done a fly front, but if I had, I wouldn't have learned something very interesting...
First off, the fit was verrrrry strange. The back was fine, but the front was incredibly baggy. I puzzled about who this could have been drafted for, because they look very close fitting in the picture. I regret not taking a photo, becuase it reminded me of this (without the pointy bits).

Needless to say, I had to take in the front quite a bit.
The back gaped, so I added a couple of darts. Then I found I had comehow cut the waistband too small
so I added a tab.

The fit at that point was not too bad, tho' the back was strangely low,
 There is a bit of a gap in the back because I didn't pull the zipper fully closed
 while the front was unusually high.
plus the pockets pull in the front a bit.

I'm not sure when the dime dropped, tho' I'm sure the experience among you have realized all along where I've been going with this...

Yes indeed. I'd somehow confused with the front and the back. 
The original  front with added darts and some pull lines.

the original back, that still doesn't fit despite all my adjustments..
I should be slightly offended to realize that because I have no derriere the front fits as a back better than the back would, but this is quite amusing.

So, modified the pattern so I had two 'fronts'.

And tried again. These aren't bad, I just need to take about an inch out of the rise so the waistband sits at my waist.
The weird lighter area is from sitting on my bicycle saddle

I can't believe it's taken this long to get my first vintage pattern sewn and I'm starting to think I should just stick to skirts. I've marked my changed on the pattern pieces and will revisit this trouser thing later.